The Verdon Gorge is Perfect Provence

Lavender. Landscapes. Rosé. What’s more quintessentially Provence?

This first appeared on my Substack, Unpacked, and has been adapted and cross-posted here.

A sunny lavender field in bloom in Provence, France. — Lavender fields? **Check.**
Landscapes that smell like an *herbes de provence* spice blend? **Check.**
Small villages made of stone with corner restaurants and impossibly cute terraces and *epiceries* selling more food porn than your car and budget can handle? **Also check.**
More *rosé* flowing than the amount of water in the Verdon River? **Hell yea.**

What started as a trip to packraft down the Verdon and paddleboard on the lakes turned into a perfectly Provençal getaway complete with hikes, views, and French camping (which is to say more like glamping).

We were not surprised that Le Gorge du Verdon was so beautiful. What did surprise us was that, leading up to our trip, it didn’t seem like a place many of the French people we knew had ever been to.

The area should be a crown jewel of France. We’d seen tons of videos and write ups in kayaking and climbing books and on youtube channels that highlighted the outdoor activities, the natural beauty, and the quaint villages. I thought it would be packed on this May holiday weekend, but alas, it was not.

We didn’t know what to think–to us, May was prime time. Not too hot to enjoy a long hike, enough water still in the river to paddle, rocks that aren’t so hot they burn your skin while climbing…where were all the people? But I wasn’t complaining.

The Verdon River and Gorge viewed from above. Known as Europe's Grand Canyon. — The Gorge du Verdon is also known as Europe’s Grand Canyon.

It did turn out to be moderately busy in our French glampsite over the May holiday, a nice group without being too packed. The on-site restaurant was slinging everything from local dishes to pizza pies, there was nightly entertainment across from the in-ground pool area, and there was the requisite, copious amounts of rosé, served in glass pitchers shaped like fish (There was also a nice little shop with daily fresh bread delivered, because, it’s France.)

Outside of this, we had trails, waterfront, and nature almost to ourselves. I’m not sure where everyone else in the campsite went or how they spent their days, but we rarely saw others. The Verdon Gorge is vast and pretty wild—it’s often referred to as the European Grand Canyon—and can probably absorb a lot of human visitors without many signs of their presence.

The stars showed off in the pleasantly cool nights. The days were warm and sunny. And everything was in bloom. It smelled good. It smelled like Provence.

Our first full day arrived and we headed out with our packrafting tour guide on the Verdon for several hours of paddling on its crystal clear, turquoise waters that were hugged by monstrous cliffs.

The Verdon river, y’all, is stunning. The entire gorge is stunning. The area surrounding it is stunning. The towns that hug the lakes and hillsides are quaint and cute and very deserving of the hype.

We did some classic little things–like renting a small electric boat on the Lake of Saint Croix to go into a scenic section of the gorge.

But we also went into this expansive wilderness for other hikes and scenic drives, which should be the main reason to come. Sadly, and I don’t remember why not, but there was no climbing for us this trip. Next time, for sure.

We also hiked around La Palud sur Verdon and Aiguines, visited the small towns of Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Les Salles, Castellane, and La Palud, and paddled off the shore of Bauduen. The water was chilly and the air temperature hot, making for sweaty paddles and hikes that were quickly cooled by a dip in the water!

There were amazing vistas, quintessential lavender fields, and time spent on the side of the road to let sheep herds pass through.

This place works, breathes, and lives around you, balancing the tourists with the nature and towns all around that really do feel lived in. Which is something quite special.